Plane to hanoi pretty straight forward and still a much better option than the bus. On arrival at Hanoi we opted to pay the few extra dollars for an airport transfer taxi in order to make sure we had someone we could trust and not have to fight our way through the buzzards outside who all want to take you to a differenthotel than the one you want. The Luxury hotel isnt quite as glamerous as the pictures on the internet lead you to believe as the dining room and bar are probaly no bigger than my office at Learning Services, however, the rooms are spacious and the beds cleean and comfortable so for $20 a night it will certainly do us. The plan is to have a couple of days here then head out to Sapa for a couple of nights, back to Hanoi and then off to Halong bay for a three day luxury cruise before returning to comlete some last minute shopping and then head back home.
We headed out with the intention of catching up with brother Scott and Kim for a bit of lunch and to look into the options for the Halong bay cruise. Met Scott and headed to a resaurant cafe for a few beers and a bite to eat before the travel shop. the guy in the travel agency was easy to understand and we opted to spoil ourselves for the cruise by picking one of the more expensive boats with only three cabins and the lure of going to places where the stadard boats dont go to and hence a little more quiet. Turns out this is the same boat that Scott and Kim are on a few days before us.
We arrangd to meet scott and Kim at Bia Hoi corner, a popular drinking spot where you literally sit on the street on little stools or chairs and drink fresh beer whilst watching the madness they call traffic. Scott had tried to describe this to us on previous occassions but it's one of those places that you really do have to experience for yourself in order to appreciate the madness. The beer flows freely and at 25 cents a glass can be a bit of a trap as the glass is rarely empty and the humidity combined with great atmosphere can allo you to lose a bit of time. The toilet here is one worth noting as you are directed down a small alleyway past several open houses, at the last house near the end you pay 2000 Dong to a little man and then continue around the corner to a couple of pretty dodgy looking "squat" toilets where there is no light and the door doesnt close so an interesting experience for the girls.
Wadered around to a nicce restaurant for dinnner ( some very good duck) and then back to the hotel Luxury for an early night.
Breakfastcomes free with the hotel room and a maximum of 6 guests at a time can be seated in the dining area but this is just as well considering breakfast is in the bar and the frying pan is only capable of two eggs at a time and the toaster has capacity to warm bread but not discolour it. i think tomorrow we might eat out!
Headed down to the train station this morninig to see what our options are for getting to Sapa but looks like it is going to be just as easy to book via our hotel. Wandered around to the fine arts museum and spent a lazy 90 minutes enjoying the air conditioning. it was an interesting mix of old and new are but not in the same league as MONA.
Another late lunch but this time we had crickets, buffalo and piegion. Crickets were udoubtably the highlight but i am sure we wont forget the pigeon even though i might probably never have it again. Rach picked up what she thought was the drumstick but after a few minutes stripping the bone realised that it was actually the head. (not sure how she kept it down but i would have had to visit the toilet and poke a couple of fingers down the throat.) Back to the hotel for a rest before heading back to bier Hoi to catch up with Scott and Kim. Found a great street restaurant by chance and had one of the best meals for the trip. they had a killer beef fried rice and some excellet BBQ ribs. might have to go back in a coule of days for the "rotating the Bird" which was not on offer tonight but did exist on the menu.
Decided to skip the hotel breakfast and headed out for a decent coffee and some fresh fruit and yoghurt. Food was ok but very slow and we were hoping to visit Uncle Ho before the 11am closing time. We only just made it as the taxi had to detour and fight its way through the traffic. We also had our first car accident, nothing more than a scrape on our car and a buggered door on the other car which tried to cut the corner and hit us whils we were stationary but the other driver still tried to say it was not his fault.
Uncle Ho was an experience in itself as there were some amazing cues and it was difficult to see how we could possibly get in and back out to collect our bags. We also contiue to be amazed at how pushy some of the locals can be as they manoveur around you and even go between the legs at times. Inside the mausaliam you need to keep your hands outside of your pockets, no hats, no sunglasses, nor frivolity and definitely no stopping! They keep in a cool rrom and send him back to Russia every year for a couple of months for refurbishment. (not bad really when you consider that the guy only wanted a simple cremation. A conservative estimate would suggest that there were at least 3000 people lined up while we were there and for some reason he was still receiving visitors well after 11.30.
Once outside it was about a km back to the luggage storage where we had to leave our phones and bags etc and with only 8 minutes before closing time the girls decided they were going to leg it in true "amazing race" style. it was quite impressive to see them both running and weaving in and out of the locals.
Caught up with scott and Kim today as well as Alison and two of her firiednds at Bia Hoi corner. this time i was well and truly 2 metres from the curb in the middle of the road. At one stage a huge wind gust appeared from nowhere and then about 30 seconds later there was a huge downpour sending us all ducking for cover under the awning on the footpath. This added to the excitement and was ok until the road started to flood and the pulled the covr of the drain. The smell from this was overbearing and you quickly learnt o breath through your ears. Purcased a couple of punchoes that your arms go straight through if your not careful and then wandered across the street for more food and wine.
Tried breakfast out again at "Barista Franks" next door to our hotel, coffee was ok but eggs and bacon were pretty bloody revolting and made the ones back at the hotel look very good asctually. Mre wandering aimlessly around town including an icecream at Fannys which cost as much as most meals that we have been having. Also visited the Hanoi Hilton which was a prison used to lock up any revolutionaries during the french times and then reused to house American POW's during the American War , as they call it here in Vietnam. The propogander videos on display were certainly one sided but overall a good place to visit. One of the two guillotines used by the french was still here and on display which was enough to ensure that you would behave yourself if at all possible but the conditions must have been pretty tough or those incarcerated. Heading to the train station shortly for the night train to Sapa, stocked up on some nibbles and wine which we will now drink from our new coconut cups purchased especially for the journey.
Thursday, 9 June 2011
Sunday, 5 June 2011
Vietnam part 3
Have just spent the last four nights in Hoi An taking it easy and enjoying some well earned R & . This place could well be one of the nicest cities that we have been to during this trip, the pace seems to have settled down a little bit and there aren't quite so many cars, bikes and horns that in all honesty start to get to you =after a while. maybe it was the plane trip rather than another bloody bus that put me in the right frame of mind!
The plane arrives in Danang about 40 minutes from Hoi An and you drive down a coastal road alongside China Beach (the area where the US soldiers came for their R&R during the war) There are currently 20 resorts being built or recently completed that are absolutely huge and will cater for the Japanese and Koreans who apparently will fly in spend a week and then fly out, maybe taking in a game of golf at the Norman Dunes course or maybe just lounging by their pool or on their "private beach". Whatever the case you cant help but think this place will be just like the Gold Coast in a few years time and those with all the money are likely to push prices up and remove the locals of their innocence.
Hoi An on the other hand, is simply beautiful. The old city restricts bikes and cars from the central area during the middle of the day and evenings meaning a little bit of tranquillity away from the hustle and bustle of normal Vietnam.
Not much to report other than we wandered around looking at buildings, shops and markets. There are over 300 Tailor shops here that can make anything you want providing you can show them a picture. I settled on a new pair of Jeans and a new linen jacket while Robyn opted for three dresses. The only down side of getting clothes made is that you need to return 2 or 3 times so that they can fit things properly and make any necessary adjustments. I must admit I am pretty happy with my purchases and even picked up something for my 50th in July.
Hoi An has great restaurants down by the river and at night the town is lit by thousands of beautiful lantern adorning the houses and restaurants. Fresh beer is generally only 4000 Dong but we managed to find a couple of places where we could get it for 3000 which comes out at 15 cents per ten ounce glass. needless to say I was happy to shout the others on the proviso that they return the favour at the New Sydney when we return home.
We also managed to take in a visit to Marble mountain which is a very nice three hour return trip a collection of five small mountains with pagodas and caves and the usual Buddas and hawkers etc. The mountains are made of marble, obviously, but they no longer mine the marble from here preferring to bring it in from China and other places to support the centuries old practice of carving the big Buddas and other quite bizarre statues, bowls, fountains, elephants and some incredibly kitsch ornaments that I am sure would look great on anyone's mantle piece; just not mine!
Another morning was taken up at the Red Bridge Cooking School where we were treated to an informative walk through the markets for an explanation of some of the foods on offer, particularly the herbs and spices used in Vietnamese cooking. Following this we jumped aboard a boat and headed downstream to the cooking school which is located in a beautiful setting on the banks of the river and includes a very nice swimming pool. Into the kitchen and first up we look at the preparation and ingredients for a Vietnamese seafood salad. Now its our turn to watch our chef Henry, prepare and make rice paper for some fresh spring rolls. - looks easy enough so away we go. Each person has their own work station with ingredients and there are a few locals on hand to keep an eye on us and help out when necessary. I must say my spring roll turned out pretty dam good and tasted equally as good as the ones we have been buying so look out when we get home as my lunchbox might look a little different. next up pancakes, this time not quite so perfect as the mixture stuck to the bottom of the pan and refused to flip quite like Henry's did..... still tasted ok though so might have to practice a bit more. Finally an Eggplant in clay pot creation. once again a very impressive taste sensation that was equally as good as the ones I have been sampling along the way.
Back to the dining room to enjoy the salad, eggplant and a fish dish that Henry created, all washed down with a couple of beers and then off to the pool for a relaxing swim and then taxi back to town for a few more fresh beers at 15 cents each.
Heading for Hanoi in the morning by plane so will keep you all posted providing the computer keeps hanging in there. It's getting increasingly difficult to see the screen with now at least 30% missing but i am sure i can work around this.
The plane arrives in Danang about 40 minutes from Hoi An and you drive down a coastal road alongside China Beach (the area where the US soldiers came for their R&R during the war) There are currently 20 resorts being built or recently completed that are absolutely huge and will cater for the Japanese and Koreans who apparently will fly in spend a week and then fly out, maybe taking in a game of golf at the Norman Dunes course or maybe just lounging by their pool or on their "private beach". Whatever the case you cant help but think this place will be just like the Gold Coast in a few years time and those with all the money are likely to push prices up and remove the locals of their innocence.
Hoi An on the other hand, is simply beautiful. The old city restricts bikes and cars from the central area during the middle of the day and evenings meaning a little bit of tranquillity away from the hustle and bustle of normal Vietnam.
Not much to report other than we wandered around looking at buildings, shops and markets. There are over 300 Tailor shops here that can make anything you want providing you can show them a picture. I settled on a new pair of Jeans and a new linen jacket while Robyn opted for three dresses. The only down side of getting clothes made is that you need to return 2 or 3 times so that they can fit things properly and make any necessary adjustments. I must admit I am pretty happy with my purchases and even picked up something for my 50th in July.
Hoi An has great restaurants down by the river and at night the town is lit by thousands of beautiful lantern adorning the houses and restaurants. Fresh beer is generally only 4000 Dong but we managed to find a couple of places where we could get it for 3000 which comes out at 15 cents per ten ounce glass. needless to say I was happy to shout the others on the proviso that they return the favour at the New Sydney when we return home.
We also managed to take in a visit to Marble mountain which is a very nice three hour return trip a collection of five small mountains with pagodas and caves and the usual Buddas and hawkers etc. The mountains are made of marble, obviously, but they no longer mine the marble from here preferring to bring it in from China and other places to support the centuries old practice of carving the big Buddas and other quite bizarre statues, bowls, fountains, elephants and some incredibly kitsch ornaments that I am sure would look great on anyone's mantle piece; just not mine!
Another morning was taken up at the Red Bridge Cooking School where we were treated to an informative walk through the markets for an explanation of some of the foods on offer, particularly the herbs and spices used in Vietnamese cooking. Following this we jumped aboard a boat and headed downstream to the cooking school which is located in a beautiful setting on the banks of the river and includes a very nice swimming pool. Into the kitchen and first up we look at the preparation and ingredients for a Vietnamese seafood salad. Now its our turn to watch our chef Henry, prepare and make rice paper for some fresh spring rolls. - looks easy enough so away we go. Each person has their own work station with ingredients and there are a few locals on hand to keep an eye on us and help out when necessary. I must say my spring roll turned out pretty dam good and tasted equally as good as the ones we have been buying so look out when we get home as my lunchbox might look a little different. next up pancakes, this time not quite so perfect as the mixture stuck to the bottom of the pan and refused to flip quite like Henry's did..... still tasted ok though so might have to practice a bit more. Finally an Eggplant in clay pot creation. once again a very impressive taste sensation that was equally as good as the ones I have been sampling along the way.
Back to the dining room to enjoy the salad, eggplant and a fish dish that Henry created, all washed down with a couple of beers and then off to the pool for a relaxing swim and then taxi back to town for a few more fresh beers at 15 cents each.
Heading for Hanoi in the morning by plane so will keep you all posted providing the computer keeps hanging in there. It's getting increasingly difficult to see the screen with now at least 30% missing but i am sure i can work around this.
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